Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2013 21:31:20 GMT -7
I am toying with the idea of riding easy doubletrack trails (and singletrack if they are safe to ride) in our local forest right through the winter. Being so close to Lake Ontario, we are in an odd little local pocket where there is often little snow here for much of the winter. Which means the trails are bare...just frozen ground for the most part.
Does anyone here ride mountain bike in winter? If so, I am curious to know about a couple of things, tire choice being no. 1 concern.
Post back here, anyone who has some experience with this.
Thanks, Svend
|
|
|
Post by JimRatliff on Nov 23, 2013 22:38:50 GMT -7
Limited experience. I've ridden after a snow where patches of snow remained (less than 1/2 an inch) but mostly clear. Loose snow wasn't a problem, packed icy snow was interesting. Fortunately I could straightline those sections or ride off the trail and around them. However, I've never ridden at freezing. I think 40 degrees and mostly sunny is my lower threshhold. I've only used my regular tyres, never studded or anything special.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2013 10:51:07 GMT -7
Thanks Jim. I'm pretty sure I don't have to do much to the bike setup other than get studded tires (maybe) and use light chain lube for good shifting. Fork oil should perform OK, I am guessing. Since I don't plan to ride when there is any significant snow cover, wider tires are not going to be needed.
|
|
|
Post by livingproof on Nov 25, 2013 8:36:17 GMT -7
While I can offer no guidance with respect to mountain biking, keeping my toes warm on a road bike requires some insulating material over the front of my biking shoes. I use neoprene and tape it on. Did some miles yesterday at 25 F and 30 mph winds. Whooo!
Ride on Brother.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2013 8:43:39 GMT -7
Hey LP - good tip. Never thought of that, although I'm sure I would have learned it at the first sub-zero ride. Like my ski boots, my cycling shoes fit pretty snug, and have these silly little vents on the sides. I'm sure I can find some big fur-lined Viking overboots to slip on top.
|
|
|
Post by JimRatliff on Nov 25, 2013 9:55:51 GMT -7
Things you use and forget about. -- Unlike your ski boots, your bike shoes don't have any insulation on the inside. -- Yes, Lynn and I both had Neoprene full booties that covered the entire shoe but found that those were too warm. We now have toe covers that cover the front half of the shoe while still leaving the cleat area on the bottom of the shoe exposed. I do have full shoe covers, but instead of the warmer neoprene these are lighter material and looser fitting (i.e. easier to get on and off) and are aimed at water and wind protection. However, if it is very wet, all of these will let water in through the cleat holes in the bottom, so cold weather and rain or wet roads is not a good combination.
However, I would NOT consider giving up my cleated shoes just to keep water out. Those times that the rear of the bike has slipped on packed snow or ice, the cleats really helped me to stay one with the bike and amazingly balanced.
The other thing that we have struggled with is the right combination of layers that keep you warm as you are starting your ride while keeping you dry the first time you exert some effort. I highly recommend riding with a back pack so that you can take layers off as you ride. Lynn has a windbreaker that packs into its own pouch that she can tie around her waist, my layers aren't nearly as interesting. We both wear Smartwool socks -- they do a decent job of keeping feet warm even when wet (and don't stink). We both have arm warmers and leg warmers that are easily removable and used when the rides are milder or when we are doing an organized ride that starts early and warms up by 30 degrees as the sun takes over.
Another thing that you would realize the first time that you ride is to wear your Smart Wool beanie (or some head warmer) under your helmet; another item where we utilize our ski equipment. Full finger gloves will also be desirable, but those don't have to be bike specific.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2013 6:49:51 GMT -7
Thanks for the tips, Jim. I think I'm pretty well set for clothing -- full finger gloves (incl. an old pair of motorcycle gloves for when it gets really cold); base layers; wind breaker. I plan to wear old ski socks and my ski beanie. The only thing I don't have are shoe covers (booties). You're right, the feet will probably freeze without them.
Before I buy studded tires, I think I'll do a ride or two just to see what's there in way of ice. I may not need them. They are expensive and heavy (1 kg ea.), so will avoid them if I can.
Ironically, right now there are a couple of inches of snow on the ground here. So much for bare trails... It went from autumn schlock weather to full-on winter within a day. Plans on hold for the time being.
|
|
|
Post by ron on Nov 26, 2013 11:54:02 GMT -7
Hey Svend, hell yes! If I am in NJ there isn't usually snow on the trails so I just wear some fleece pants with some wind shells and then a base layer with a mid and a shell or softshell jacket. I wear regular winter gloves and bootie covers with a pair of toe heaters and a balaclava under my helmet and I'm good. This winter I am going to rent a fattie bike for the trails up at steamboat. looks like so much fun!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2013 15:05:46 GMT -7
Right on, Ron! Let me know how you like the fat bike. I've seen folks riding those up north of here near our ski town. Trundling along snowmobile trails and cross-country ski trails. They look a like a hoot to ride.
Interesting that they have gone back to elemental, simple mountain bike design for those. Chromoly frames, hardtail, rigid forks. Brilliant idea. Love it.
|
|
|
Post by meput on Nov 26, 2013 19:09:45 GMT -7
Couple of thoughts/tips about winter riding.
Fat bikes are very popular here in Maine for winter riding. Many friends ride them during the winter months. They are heavy compared to traditional mtn. bikes. The newly available aluminum framed fat bikes are popular this fall due to decreased weight. A lot of inertia in the wheels and tires; once going, they like to keep going. Front suspension/ full suspension fat bikes probably not needed due to the soft ride of the fat tires. The fatter the tires, the wider the Q at the crankset.
When temps drop below freezing, water bottles and hydration pack hoses tend to freeze. Leave nozzles open, otherwise they will freeze closed. I like Polar bottles, filled with room temp water/fluids. They will stay unfrozen for ~ 1 hr in 15 - 20° temps.
I have worn my ski helmet on the bike to keep my head warm. Ski gloves work well, as do snowmobile gloves to keep your hands and fingers warm. Lobster gloves also allow you to shift both road and mtn bikes.
I do not like neoprene booties. They do not breathe and I get clammy feet. If I was to return to winter biking, I would get some winter mtn. bike shoes. Whether I am using my mtn bike or road bike, the frog pedals would be used. When I have used my road bike with my road pedals, ice is an enemy for the road shoes with cleats.
For temps below 32°, wearing 2 pair of tights works well. If windy, shell over a pair of tights works well.
Snowmobile trails are a hoot. If they are icy, studded tires work very well. Snowmobilers are not expecting to share the trail with a bicycle, so use your ears and get off the trail before the snowmobiler comes up on you. Don't ride with music that might not let you hear a snowmobile coming.
|
|